Towards Johar (Milam) valley: Memories of a traveller

Travelogue

H N Singh 

Harendra Narayan Singh (H.N. Singh) is a dynamic leader with an M.Sc. in Disaster Mitigation and an MBA in Marketing. A trained mountaineer from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering and a dedicated member of Lions Clubs International since 1993, Singh has held multiple leadership roles, including as a member of Lions International. Beyond Lions, he is active in organizations like SPHEEHA, Lucknow Literary Festival, and Lucknow Mountaineering Federation. A licensed HAM radio operator (VU2YUH), Singh retired as a senior consultant from a multinational company in healthcare. 

It was the onset of summer, that magical time when the Himalayan snow begins to melt, unveiling the hidden beauty of the valleys below. That was when we – myself and four dear companions, Shailendra Gopal Gurha, Naresh Chandra Bhargava, Uma Shankar Singh and Urfi Abbasi – embarked on a unique expedition. It was not just another trek, but a soul-stirring journey into the heart of the Himalayas – the Johar Valley, also known as the MilamValley. Our expedition was conducted under the leadership of V.K. Raina, director of the Geological Survey of India (GSI). Raina Sahab was a man of great knowledge and unwavering dedication, deeply connected with the geography of the Himalayas. Under his guidance, our journey transformed from a physical endeavour into a spiritual exploration.

Departure from Lucknow – A Question with a Meaningful Answer

Before we set off, a press conference was held in Lucknow. A journalist asked a simple, yet profound question: “Why do you go on such expeditions, investing your money, time, energy, even risking your lives?”  Raina Sahab answered calmly: “Let me answer that. Each time the mountain throws a new challenge, it must be faced with limited resources and complete resolve. This journey is not just physical – it is mental and spiritual too. When these youngsters return to everyday life, the challenges here feel small. The mountain makes them stronger – inside and out.” With these words, our purpose became crystal clear – this wasn’t just an expedition, it was a classroom of life.

Munsiyari – The threshold of Johar

Our journey began in Munsiyari, a breathtakingly beautiful town from where the snow-capped Panchachuli peaks seemed to beckon us. The towering deodar trees, gurgling rivers, and the warm smiles of locals made sure fatigue didn’t touch us. The weather was perfect – neither too cold nor too warm – and it felt as if the music of the Himalayas resonated in the very air.

Martoli – A village breathing history

Our next stop was Martoli – a village where history lives in every stone. The intricate Bhotiya architecture, ancient temple structures and the simplicity of life moved us deeply. Tibetan cultural influences were evident – in the lilting folk songs, handwoven woolen garments and the stories shared over cups of tea. 

Milam village 

Though over a hundred houses still stand in Milam village, no one lives there. Since the 1962 closure of the route to Tibet, the villagers were displaced.

Towards Milam Glacier – Into the land of snow

Then came the journey to Milam Glacier – the largest glacier in Uttarakhand. Reaching it was no less than a pilgrimage. Rocky trails, biting winds and breathless altitudes challenged us at every step. But the determination of our team and the calm encouragement of Raina Sahab kept us going.

June 1, 1984 – A day etched in memory

While Operation Blue Star was unfolding in the plains, we stood on one of the most peaceful and sacred spots on Earth – the Milam Glacier. That morning was magical – sunlight dancing on snow turned the landscape into a divine canvas.

Ralam Glacier – Another face of nature

From Milam, we trekked to Ralam Glacier. The path was steeper, the terrain more challenging, but the beauty more profound. Towering peaks, silent valleys and icy rivers whispered lessons – of resilience, patience, and humility.

The soul of Johar – culture and silence

The Tibetan essence of Johar Valley is deeply rooted. Yet, the valley still sings – through folk dances, Bhotiya craftsmanship, the chants in ancient temples and the untold stories in the eyes of the people.

The return – a different world within

When we returned, we brought back more than memories – we carried within us a new sense of peace, simplicity, and courage. This wasn’t just mountaineering – it was the ascent of the soul.

Even today, when I close my eyes, I see those snow-covered peaks, hear the laughter of my companions and feel the silence of that morning on the Milam Glacier. The 1984 Johar journey is among the most cherished experiences of my life – a treasure that grows more precious with time. If you ever wish to truly meet the Himalayas, Johar Valley is waiting to embrace you – just as it embraced us. A special permit is required to visit Milam Glacier, as it lies within the Inner Line area near the international border. After our return, Lucknow Doordarshan broadcast a special programme on our expedition and print media gave a good coverage – a proud moment for all of us. (From the Memories of a Traveller. The Year: 1984)